Costa Rica is a nature lovers’ paradise
says Judith Baker
Despite accounting for just 0.1% of the world’s landmass, Costa Rica contains 5% of the world’s biodiversity, across four mountain ranges, 800 miles of coastline, 200 volcanic formations and hundreds of national parks, most of which is reasonably accessible from the capital San Jose.The incredibly varied topography means you can cruise cloudforest one day, visit active volcanoes the next, and relax on a pristine white beach. Adventure experiences include zipping through canopy lines hundreds of metres long and riding the rough surf of the Pacific. Bathing in natural hot springs and living the cowboy life on a working carral are also on offer here.
But most people head here to get close to wildlife, notably cuddly sloths, white faced capuchin monkeys, howler monkeys and hundreds of tropical birds including the gorgeous quetzal – called by some birdwatchers the most beautiful bird in the world
Costa Rica prides itself on its green credentials and this, together with its peaceful democracy (it has had no army since 1948) and abundance of natural beauty has earned it the name ‘the world’s happiest country’
RAINFOREST EXPERIENCE
Where happier to get close to nature than in one of the country’s eco-lodges. They are found throughout Costa Rica, many in lush jungle in the south near the Pacific Gulf. Increasingly sophisticated with good food, stylish accommodation in wooden cabins and the opportunity to experience nature first-hand they allow visitors to make minimal impact without sacrificing creature comforts. Early morning tours let you see the rain forest wake up and leisurely kayak tours take you past rich mangrove forests alive with snakes, crocodiles, monkeys galore, sloths and toucans and parrots.
Many offer activities including fishing, chocolate making and yoga. Playa Nicuesa Rainforest lodge is only accessible by a 30 minute boat ride across the Pacific Coast Gulf in the south of Costa Rica. A 165 acre private reserve on the site of a disused cocoa plantation it has 9 rustic but elegant wooden en suite cabins surrounded by luxuriant foliage with ceiling fans, open air showers, large beds with mosquito nets, locally made wood carvings and private verandas from which to spot jungle wildlife and listen to the waves crashing on the pebble beach. Whales and dolphins can be spotted in the Gulf and whatever you catch on a fishing trip can be enjoyed for dinner in the central tree-top level lodge which is the hub of the resort with a bar and communal dining on long tables carved from fallen trees.
Playa Nicuesa Rainforest Lodge. www.nicuesalodge.com T:+506 83354727
CLOUDFOREST
Monteverde’s rare ecosystem is internationally famous as one of the most extensive cloud forests in Central America. At 5,900 ft., this natural sanctuary has more than 2,500 different types of plants and animals, including 400 species of birds Guided natural history walks take you through the Monteverde Reserve which is home to jaguars and pumas. There’s also a zip-line tour of the reserve where you look down on mammals such as the fuzzy martilla. But the best way to see the lush cloud forest and its inhabitants is by walking on hanging bridges which take you alongside the canopy of trees.
In the early 1950s, a group of Quakers from the United States left their homes in Alabama and arrived in Monteverde at a time when the region was just beginning to be settled. The Quakers, fleeing the United States to avoid being drafted into the Korean War, and attracted by the fact that Costa Rica had no army, established a simple life in Monteverde centred on dairy and cheese production. Some of these families helped establish the Monteverde and Santa Elena Cloud Forest Reserves some 20 years later. To this day they have an influence on the region, including owning hotels. La Establo is a Swiss chalet style hotel on the mountain side. Huge rooms have floor to ceiling windows to admire the scenery and spectacular sunsets. Rocking chairs and embroidered cushions add to the comfort. Down the hill from the hotel the pretty town of St Elena looks like an Alpine village nestling beneath the misty mountains with its wooden lodges, cosy bars and lively restaurants filled with hikers and bird spotters.
El Establo arranges night walks to see forest mammals such as racoons, sloths, armadillos and bats
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El Establo, www.hotelelestablo.com +506 2645 5110
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HOME ON THE RANGE
The cattle ranching region of Guanacaste is also home to the Rincon de la Vieja volcano, a thermally active area. Adventure junkies will thrive on the activities on offer here from zip wires, Tarzan swings, white water rafting, canyoning, tubing and horseback riding after which a dip in the hot natural springs provides a welcome relief to aching limbs. On the edge of the national park wannabe cowboys can stay at working cattle ranches with real hacienda style accommodation available and all the adventure tours on the doorstep Hotel Hacienda Guachipelin, situated on an actual working horse and cattle ranch has simply furnished rooms have whitewashed walls, terracotta floors and colourful hammocks overlooking almond and eucalyptus trees.
Hacienda Guachipelin. www.guachipelin.com +506 2665 2178
SURFS UP – HEAD TO THE BEACH
The Pacific Coast has some beautiful beaches with conditions that offer some of the best surfing in this part of the world. Towns such as Nosara are packed with bright driftwood signs pointing to surf shacks and sunset bars. Beaches have an abandoned Robinson-Crusoe feel with rickety shelters constructed from wood and sticks with covers of dried palm leaves
Iberia (www.iberia.com) flies daily to San Jose via Madrid.
More information:
www.visitcentroamerica.com / www.visitcostarica.com
TOUR INFORMATION: www.costaricatoursite.com
