The Canary island of Lanzarote is known by the British as a sun and sangria party island and it is true the south of the island has its share of package holiday resorts and apartments.
But the North of the island, as I have just discovered, is full of surprises – a rugged landscape which is home to traditional fishing villages, miles of unspoilt coast and a quirky, laidback ambience which contrasts nicely with the business of the southern resorts.
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I started my exploration based at the Finca de Arrieta, an ‘eco retreat’ in the hills above the pretty seaside town of Arrietta, where the waves that crash along the shore make it a paradise for surfers.
The village, built on farmland by husband and wife Tila and Michelle Braddock, is a group of 15 villas, yurts and cottages run on environmentally friendly and sustainable lines.
I opted for the luxury Mongolian yurt, which turned out to be a circular tent which contained a silk-lined interior, decked out with Indonesian furnishings and a huge, canopied bed. This certainly wasn’t the deeply uncomfortable Girl Guide camping of my youth.
Eco doesn’t mean basic here. As well as the luxurious touches in the yurt, there is a pretty solar powered pool and lots of outdoor places to relax including a central ‘chill out’ area with low Saharan seating and that great holiday essential – free WiFi! Honesty shop and bar mean you can help yourself to provisions for your kitchen and settle up when you leave. Each unit is also provided with a Hybrid electric car for use during your stay.
Away from the Finca, there is plenty to see and do in the area. I venture to the Jameos del Agua, a magical collection of caves inside a volcanic tunnel. We creep inside by climbing down a stone-staircase into the first cave known as ‘Jameo Chico’, which has been turned into an unusual bar / restaurant, with views over a small lake.
This natural lake has extremely clear water – regulated by the Atlantic Ocean – and is home to a species of blind albino crabs known as ‘Jameitos’ which are only found on Lanzarote.
This part of the island is dominated by the work of island born artist and architect Cesar Manrique, during the 1960’sManrique returned home from America in 1966, just as the tourist industry on Lanzarote began to take off. He was determind that it would not beome over-developed, so set about creating buildings that blended with nature.
Next day I hopped on the ferry to La Graciosa island, just 20 minutes from Lanzarote This lovely little gem is quite and sleepy, with miles of rugge coastline to explore. A jeep safari across the island proved an exhilarating way to spot birds, some of the distinctive white and blue Manrique houses and even the odd swimmer braving the waves. Back at the port a banquet of freshly caught fish was waiting.
Lanzarote Retreats, which runs the Finca de Arrietta, runs other eco accommodation options across the island including fisherman’s cottage, luxury villas an even a luxury penthouse.
www.lanzaroteretreats.com
Monarch and Easyjet fly to Lanzarote from Gatwick
